IPL Hair Removal

You may have heard of IPL hair removal and wondered what it is as it often often talked of alongside laser hair removal as a permanent method of hair reduction.

IPL stands for Intense Pulsed Light and is actually one of the most common forms of “laser hair removal” used though it doesn’t actually use lasers in the strictest sense of the word!

The difference is that lasers (or Light Amplification by the Stimulated Emission of Radiation) produce a precise high energy beam of light in a single wavelength while Intense Pulsed Light systems use hundreds of different wavelengths of light. The bursts of light in IPL are filtered so that the flashes can be targeted at the hair in as precise a way as lasers would be.

In fact there are very few differences in the effect of laser and IPL hair removal treatment. Both work in the same way. The high energy light (whether from a laser or IPL hair removal machine) is designed to burn the hair and damage the follicle while leaving the skin relatively unscathed. The hair follicle is affected by the light energy heating up the cells at the base of the hair and damaging them causing them (hopefully) to be unable to produce further hair growth.

IPL Hair removal on legs and feet

IPL Hair removal on legs and feet

The benefits of IPL hair removal over lasers are that it treats a much larger area of skin per light pulse than laser hair treatment. It is therefore extremely popular with patients and clinics alike as it is both faster and cheaper without appearing to have any reduction in effectiveness. However the costs of laser hair removal you see quoted are generally those for the IPL form so this reduction has already been taken into account.

Another benefit of IPL over laser treatment is that there is less risk of damage to skin. That’s because the light is sent out in 4 or 5 pulses. The skin heats up less rapidly with each pulse than the darker hair and follicle and cools down faster between pulses resulting in damage to the hair follicle but not to the surrounding skin. Skin is generally treated with a cooling gel to reduce any burning sensation too.

While it will always be easier to treat patients with fair skin and dark hair (where the difference in hair and skin color is greatest) some IPL machines have been designed to deal with different skin colors these days.

The problem with treating other shades of hair is that it is the melanin in dark hair which absorbs the heat from the IPL machine. If you have blond or gray hair it has very little melanin to absorb the heat energy and so it does not get destroyed.

If you have dark, olive or tanned skin then the skin will also absorb some of the heat energy and may get damaged. This has been tackled by controlling the light in different ways for different skin types. Your treatment will probably take longer than someone who has fair skin and dark hair but it is now possible. Make sure you discuss these details during the initial consultation to ensure that the treatment and machine being proposed for IPL hair removal treatment are matched to your specific requirements.

Unfortunately just as with laser hair removal treatment IPL only damages follicles that are in their growth phase. This means that each Intense Pulsed Light treatment will only be effective on about 60% of the hair follicles that are actively growing at that time. (This percentage varies a little across different parts of the body). You have to rely on further IPL hair removal treatments to tackle the remaining hair. This means that everyone needs a course of at least 3 treatments and possibly 6 to 8 for best results.

Laser Hair Removal Equipment

When you’re at the stage of considering a particular treatment center or clinic, be sure to ask questions about which type of laser hair removal equipment they have and which machines you will actually be treated with.

Obviously the more state of the art the better. If their equipment is 20 years old, run a mile because equipment is constantly improving and if a clinic is not reinvesting in new technology then you are not getting the best results that could be achieved for your time and money. While these machines cost tens of thousands of dollars and clinics can’t constantly change them, that is not your problem and you do want to find a clinic which uses the latest and best.

Also remember that different types of equipment are suitable for different skin and hair types. When you go for your initial consultation ask why they recommend a particular piece of equipment for you over others that they may have. If they have only one type of laser equipment ask why they chose it and whether it is the best one for you.

laser hair removal equipment

Which laser equipment will be right for you?

The different types of laser equipment which you might encounter at clinics are:-

  • The Ruby Laser is a 694 nm wavelength machine. (Also see brand names Epilaser, Rubystar and Palomar E2000). This was the first laser hair removal system used commercially and has been extensively tested. The light waves are very selectively absorbed by melanin (the pigment in the hair and skin). It causes selective damage to hair follicles, minimising injury to the skin. There is a 2 second period between each laser pulse designed to allow the skin to cool down and cause less injury and pain. This type of laser also only works on light skin colors
  • The Alexandrite Laser Machine – This machine has a 755nm wavelength and works in a similar way to the Ruby laser. It is also only suitable for treating very white skin. It appears under the brand names of GentleLASE, Apogee and EpiTouchPlus.
  • The Nd: Yag (1064 nm wavelength) laser which appears also under brand names CoolGlide, Medilite IV, Varia, Athos, Lyra and Image is meant to be capable of treating all skin colors however the evidence is still lacking about whether long term hair removal can be achieved for everyone. It was not designed specifically for hair removal and is more often used for removing tattoos. It must be used with a carbon lotion to effect hair removal and there is the difficulty of getting the lotion to penetrate to the follicles. If it doesn’t skin damage can occur according to the British Association of Cosmetic Doctors. It appears this is not the safest option
  • The Diode laser (800 nm or 810 nm wavelength). There are lots of brand names for this type of laser including SLP 1000, FI Diode, Light Sheer, MeDioStar, LaserLite, Epistar and Apex 800. This kind of laser penetrates further into the skin than Ruby and Alexandrite lasers and may be used to treat darker skin although tests are still ongoing as to how effective they are at long term hair removal.
  • Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) laser also appears under brand names Ultimate Light, EpilLight, PhotoDerm, Quantum, AcuLight or Vasculight. These type of lasers can safely treat all skin colors as there are many parameters on the machine which can be adjusted by a trained operator to effect hair removal in a more personalized way. See IPL hair removal for more details.

Which laser hair removal equipment will work best for you?

Unfortunately the FDA only approves systems as being safe and does not compare how effective one system is over another. And with most of the machines tests are ongoing regarding how permanent hair removal actually is. So you are left with requesting the evidence from the clinics you are thinking of using about their particular system or researching on the web where you may be fed stories put about by the manufacturers. By the far the best is personal recommendation of laser hair removal equipment from someone who has had success with it and has similar hair and coloring to you. Failing that get as much information about any particular machine as you can from independent medical websites.

Laser Hair Removal at Home for the Face

Laser hair removal at home for the face sounds like a great idea. If you can zap away your unwanted facial hair in an instant, why not? However, there is a problem. Lately I have had a few people ask me for reviews or advice about different products they could use, but I have to say that there is not one home laser system I can recommend at the moment for face hair removal.

I don’t have a problem with home laser hair removal machines in principle. There are some which work well. It is using them as a facial hair remover I have a problem with. In fact, I don’t think that laser hair removal at home should be practiced anywhere near the face. It is too dangerous to use a laser or even IPL hair removal machine anywhere near your eyes unless you know what you are doing. Most of the systems which actually work, do not recommend it, in any case.

But I suppose my main objection is that I don’t think laser hair removal for the face is the best method so why try it at home? Why not try the method which works for everyone and which is permanent? Every hair gone for good has to be the aim, surely? Whereas a bit of regrowth does not matter too much on your legs, it certainly does on your face.

Surely it is better to use a machine for home electrolysis such as the One Touch, which is safe for the face and which will give one hundred percent permanent hair removal than laser hair removal machines which are not safe for the face and which can’t promise full destruction of the hair?

If you want to buy a laser machine such as the Silk’n for your legs, arms, chest or back then go ahead but don’t plan on using it anywhere on your face. If you want to try laser hair removal on your face, book some treatments at a clinic. Better yet, get professional electrolysis. Just don’t take the risk with home hair removal.